Enoteca brings new dishes with creative flair
Enoteca, an Italian restaurant nestled in a renovated home in Sukhumvit Soi 27, offers a tranquil escape just minutes from the city centre. Full-length windows reveal a cozy yet sophisticated dining room, romantically lit with rustic décor.
Drawn to the warm light, like a moth to a flame, I headed inside and was warmly greeted by the owner, Nicola. As I settled into my seat, I noticed countless wine bottles lining the brick walls. “Makes sense,” I thought, given that ‘enoteca’ means ‘wine library’ in Italian.
Shortly after, we were offered warm homemade bread, and who doesn’t love freshly baked bread?
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Our culinary journey began with an enticing trio of amuse-bouche. First, the bread cone topped with mortadella and pistachio, this ice-cream cone lookalike quickly became my favorite of the three. Its crunchy exterior, savory mortadella, and nutty undertones were delicious.
Next, crispy chicken skin with Caesar dressing paid homage to the classic combination of crunchy and creamy. Although the chicken skin could have been crisper, it still provided a satisfying bite. The final offering was truffle ice cream with shaved truffle.
While the ice cream’s subtle icy texture detracted slightly from its allure, I wished for a more pronounced flavor profile, either sweeter or saltier, to fully elevate the truffle’s essence.
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The first course arrived with a mystery, a swirling dome of aromatic smoke. As the smoke lifted, I let out a small cough, but it was quickly forgotten when a beautiful golden scallop emerged, surrounded by a medley of delicate pickled vegetables.
I loved the variety of vegetables, which added different textures but also enhanced the dish’s visual charm.
The second course arrived consisting of beef tartare, black caviar, and uni sauce served on a crostini. As I took my first bite, I noticed an imbalance in the dish. I found the crostini too delicate compared to the generous serving of beef, which lacked the punchy flavors and textural contrast I love in classic beef tartare.
This became even more apparent when paired with the uni sauce. While undeniably delicious, I found the uni sauce overpowered the other ingredients
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Following this was a unique beetroot gnocchi with a Castelmagno cheese sauce, a visual delight with the deep crimson gnocchi beautifully matched to a crimson-edged plate.
Nicola emphasized the cheese’s origin from the Alps, highlighting its complex and nutty flavor profile. The gnocchi was light, chewy, and slightly sweet, harmonizing beautifully with the salty, creamy, umami-packed cheese sauce.
Beetroot crisps added a delightful crunch to each bite. The diverse textures and flavors made this a personal favorite.
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Speaking of favorites, next was Nicola’s choice: tortellini filled with sumptuous pigeon gravy, delicately nestled atop a bed of succulent pigeon breast.
The cherry sauce smeared on the plate not only enhanced the dish’s visual appeal but also contributed a subtle interplay of sweetness and tartness. This Italian take on ‘xiao long bao’ was wisely recommended to be enjoyed with a spoon, ensuring no precious drop of savory gravy went to waste, a true crime against food, indeed.
I found myself smiling as the umami richness of the gravy burst through the al dente pasta.
The final savory dish was a slow-cooked French duck with celery root purée. When I heard about the cooking process, three days of marination in a blend of sake, dashi, and miso, followed by six hours of slow cooking, my eyes widened with awe.
This dedication was evident in the succulent duck breast and perfectly rendered fat. The buttery and velvety celery root purée was the perfect accompaniment.
A subtle tartness from the gravy tied everything together, making each bite a harmonious blend of flavors. It was a satisfying conclusion to the main course.
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To conclude our culinary journey, we enjoyed a decadent 78% dark chocolate bar atop an Italian hazelnut cookie base and an accompanying hazelnut ice cream.
I knew upon sight that it was going to be nothing short of chocolatey, dense, and creamy. My instincts proved correct; the chocolate bar boasted an intense cocoa flavor with a richness that enveloped the senses.
This offered a satisfying contrast to the firm hazelnut cookie base, which lent a wonderful flaky crunch to every bite. The hazelnut ice cream provided a cold, refreshing interlude with its delicate creaminess and subtle floral notes. A delight for a chocolate lover like myself.
My overall experience at Enoteca was a positive one. The food was enjoyable, each dish showcasing thoughtful recipes that speak to the chef’s skill.
Meticulous preparation and presentation are evident on every plate, a testament to the chef’s dedication to quality and precision. Nicola, with his attentiveness to each table, added an extra layer of charm to the dining experience.
His old-world hospitality is rarely encountered these days. It is no wonder Enoteca has stood the strength of time and earned its rightful place for those craving authentic Italian cuisine in Bangkok.