I was delighted to attend a collaboration dinner by Acqua Panna & S. Pellegrino, featuring One Michelin Star Chef Antimo Merone from Estro (Hong Kong) and Chef Christian Martena from CLARA (Bangkok) on Saturday, 11th May. On this special evening, the duo paid homage to their Southern Italian heritage but with a modern twist, offering their unique interpretations of traditional flavours through a 7-course menu.
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Chef Antimo Merone honed his craft in numerous Michelin-starred establishments alongside some of the world’s most renowned chefs.
His illustrious career includes securing a Michelin star for L’Altro in Hong Kong, his Asian debut, then leading 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA in Macau to its first Michelin star as Executive Chef. In 2021, he launched Estro, his first independent restaurant, which received its own Michelin star in less than two years.
Upon arriving at CLARA, warm lights guided me along the pathway, seamlessly matching the candlelit dining inside. The ambiance was romantic, perhaps reflecting Chef Christian’s heartfelt gesture of naming the restaurant after his wife, Clara.
The minimalist two-floor house is spacious yet inviting, tastefully decorated with modern art and sculptures. Clara greeted me at the door and led me to a long, sleek wooden table. From my seat in front of the open-style kitchen, I had the pleasure of watching the talented chefs in action.
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Anticipation washed over me as I settled into my seat. The procession of seven courses unfolded with meticulous planning, starting with ‘Aperitivo‘, four impeccably crafted bite-sized appetizers designed to awaken the palate.
Next came ‘Gambero Rosso‘, the brightest prawns I’d ever seen. They appeared almost unreal, as if painted with coral pigment. Nestled on a rich bisque sauce, these prawns were sweet and succulent. Vibrant citrus notes from drops of lemon cream provided a refreshing note, while a delicate caviar cream sauce added a touch of salty indulgence.
‘Ricci De Mare‘ followed suit, an ode to a Puglian tradition of enjoying sea urchin spread on bread. This evolved into a sophisticated dish of sea urchin soup, garlicky croutons, with vibrant bursts of lemon zest to balance its brininess, accompanied with freshly baked ciabatta.
Being someone accustomed to eating sea urchin in sushi or pasta, this was a pleasing new take on the delicacy. Next, came homemade ‘Orecchiette’ pasta, effortlessly blended comfort with refinement.
A symphony of flavours unfolded; hints of chili from the broccolini, a subtle tartness from house-cured pickled mackerel, and an unexpected smokiness from bonito flakes
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Following, ‘Parmigiana,’ this unassuming dish served as Chef Antimo’s muse for his signature dish, the ‘bottini.’ At Estro, he has crafted numerous iterations of the bottini, drawing inspiration from various sources, and tonight, the humble parmigiana was his guiding light.
As it graced the table, the aroma of tomatoes teased my senses. Plump pasta pillows nestled atop a glossy tomato consommé, garnished with fresh tomato and basil.
The pasta exhibited a slightly firmer texture than usual, yet retained its exquisite silkiness, perhaps necessitated by the need to cradle the creamy tomato filling with precision. This showcased the chef’s ingenuity. Familiar yet complex flavours emerged, a harmonious interplay of tart and sweetness from the tomatoes, smokiness of the aubergines, and creaminess of the cheese, all oozed through and enveloped the al dente pasta with every bite.
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Continuing with ‘Piccione,’ a perfectly cooked pigeon with a clever twist. While the menu promised white turnips, it did take me a moment to find them. The ‘white turnips’ had turned bright pink through the magic of pickling.
I had to laugh at my own confusion. The smoky, tender pigeon harmonized beautifully with the tangy pickled turnips, velvety black olive mousse, and rich red wine sauce, ending our main course with a harmonious interplay of textures and flavours.
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Our culinary journey concluded with ‘Pistacchio’, a light and refreshing dessert; pistachio sponge cake, strawberries, and pistachio ice-cream. An abstract presentation of pistachios and strawberries was served alongside, showcasing nuanced creativity.
Following this palate-refreshing finale was a decadent surprise, homemade chocolates paired with chocolate liqueur. To top off the night, we even received a bottle of this exquisite homemade liqueur as a parting gift.
The collaboration between Chef Christian and Chef Antimo was not only a natural fit but heartwarming to see their camaraderie. Both hailing from the South of Italy, and both renowned for honouring their rich culinary heritage by crafting bold dishes that transcend tradition through modern cooking techniques and sophisticated presentations.
Completing the already outstanding meal was the warm impeccable service. Attending this rare collaboration was a true privilege, offering not only exceptional food and service, but also providing better insight into Southern Italian cuisine.