Without spices there would be no Indian food and without Indian food there would be no spices. Lucky for us, Bangkok is not without its fair share of Indian restaurants that have made their mark on the culinary scene with exciting fresh concepts brimming with a variety of spices. One such restaurant is Jhol, under the direction of Chef Hari Nayak, whose distinctive cuisine is focused on the regions around Konkan and Malabar on the West Coast as well as Chettinad, Pondicherry and Bay of Bengal on the East Coast of India. ‘JHOL’ is used colloquially in Mumbai to denote ‘mischief’, and we’ve asked Chef Hari Nayak how this translates in his play of spices.
How does spice shape your cooking? Tell us about your journey using spices.
Spices are the core of my cooking style. Cooking would be boring without it. It is essential in every sense. I use spices to balance and flavour the dishes. As a chef, I spent some time in the spice land of Kerala, India, at the black pepper and other spice plantations learning about the various stages of each spice and its characteristics. It was fascinating. Today I tend to use spices in every dish I create, not just for its heat, but also for its flavour qualities.
What are the most common spices used in Indian cuisine?
The most common household spices are cumin seeds, coriander, mustard seeds, black pepper and red chiles. This is used in everyday cooking.
Do you have a favourite dish that best represents spices in your mind?
Biriyani – It is a perfect example of how spices are used during various stages of cooking ( from marinating, sautéing, steaming and smoking) to layer and create the most complex yet subtle flavour. It is one of my favourite dishes.
When it comes to spices, do any of them bring back memories of your childhood or growing up around food?
My journey with spices began at an early age. My memories of my home kitchen in Udupi, where we would wake up with the aromas of tadka (tempering of spices hot oil) and the spluttering of mustard seeds and cumin seeds are still vivid memories to me. My grandmother would use these spice-tempered coconut oil to flavour chutneys. Grinding fresh red chilli, cinnamon, cardamom, fennel, cumin and coconut paste for our Sunday chicken curry are special Spices that remind me of home.
How are India and Thailand similar in terms of spices and cuisine?
A lot of our Southern Indian Curries t are prepared in a similar way to Thai curries. We make a curry paste or a base with roasted chillies, onion, whole spices, ginger and garlic and finish with freshly pressed coconut milk.
Is there a spice that every home kitchen should have?
I feel a few basic spices like cumin, coriander, turmeric, red chillies and black pepper are always a staple. But I love cardamom – I feel it is so versatile that you can flavour a drink like chai, a dessert or a fragrant curry!